The trail to Frenchmans Cap (1,446m) is a maze of tree roots, duckboard, enchanted forests, tree staircases and jagged rocks. There are lake views a plenty and two well-kept mountain huts for refuge from the weather. The quartzite rock peaks are intimidating and awe-inspiring simultaneously.
A return trip of 46km doesn’t sound that daunting and the 10km introduction along the gentle slopes and button grass plains put me at ease. We crossed the Franklin River and Lodden River via suspension bridges and for a while I questioned the 3-5 day suggested time frame on the sign. After Laughton’s Lead the trail becomes more challenging both in incline and terrain. Foot placement among the tree roots, and rocks required concentration, and I was surprised at how long it took us to reach Barron Pass from Lake Vera given the relatively short distance. Barron Pass sits between White Needle and Sharlands Peak with incredible views of Lake Gertrude and Lake Millicent below. Frenchman’s Cap commands acknowledgement from this point, and it was hard to comprehend that in a few hours I would be ‘up there’.
After dropping into the undergrowth once more we then emerged into an exposed rocky section before returning to the now familiar up/down/over of the trail. The Hut at Lake Tahune is prime location for a rest stop and to offload some gear before heading up the final pinch to the summit. This section is marked by rock cairns, which can blend in quite well in a rocky landscape and I almost lost my way on several occasions. I had an oops with my phone climbing down one of the rock ledges, but it was a small price to pay for the amazing experience. Being alone on the summit and the stunning 360 degrees views and array of wildflowers made me feel ‘close to the sky’ and I could not stop smiling for days after.
We met people on the trail who running up and back in a single day (super-fit!) and others who were planning a slower pace over 4 days. We did 3 days with an 11-hour hike out from Tahune hut on the final day.
Most people slept in the huts, but we opted for the peace and quiet of setting up our tent on one of the secluded tent platforms outside both huts. There is also a campsite at Lodden River near the suspension bridge but bring your mozzie repellent if you choose to stay here.
I questioned bringing my gaiters along and although I wore them on the 3rd day to protect from the wet foliage that encroaches on the track, I don’t think I would bother next time. Most of the really muddy sections of track have been updated with duckboard. I didn’t see any snakes.
Day 1 – Trackhead at Lyall Highway to Vera Hut
Day 2 – Vera Hut to Tahune Hut with Summit return
Day 3 – Tahune Hut to Trackhead
tommy the travelling turtle 